• Pedro Caballero

Costa Brava: Roses & Cadaqués (Section 2)

The second section of the trip lasted a total of 2 nights, in which we visited three different towns in the Northern part of the Costa Brava. If you just popped into this post, and are a bit lost, wondering what I’m talking about, I invite you to head to this article: Costa Brava: Tons of Coast, Tons of Bravas (Itinerary).


And if you're curious about the Southern part of this Costa Brava trip, please head to this article: Costa Brava: From Tossa de Mar to L'Estartit (Section 1).


Before reaching Roses and starting that adventure, please write down the name of this place: Ermita de Sant Antoni dels Cortals. Actually, you can also screenshot this, as you might be on your phone... The Ermita is an old magical place that is only used once a year, but what you might be more interested in is the sunflower fields surrounding this place. If you are driving I definitely recommend you stop and enjoy them for a few minutes on your drive North. Also, if you like posting photos of yourself in flower fields on Instagram (I took a few photos of my girlfriend in the fields so I am one of those people), you will have a chance to do so here!


Roses

A short stop for us, as we were planning to have lunch here and keep driving straight to Cadaqués. We stopped at ROM Restaurant & Taverna, a restaurant that has a good selection of plates and is near the beach, which is very impressive and we felt tempted to actually enjoy it for a few hours before continuing.


Cadaqués & Port Lligat

This was the most important location on the second part of the trip, as we spent two nights here and had the chance to enjoy the town fully. This historic town, painted in white has been known to be the home and inspiration of artists such as Salvador Dalí, Pablo Picasso, Magritte, Federico García Lorca and Marcel Duchamp, amongst many others. The town is magical, and due to its popularity, expect it to be the most expensive stop of the trip (even though it is still cheap because... Spain).


Your saddest moment here will be when you realize that your hotel has no parking and that the closest parking space is right in between Cadaqués and Port Lligat, on the highest part of a very inconvenient slope and therefore requires a 10 minutes uphill walk from the beach at either of the two places. There are no taxis in Cadaqués, just a very angry taxi driver that refused to pick us up one day, and a very nice Uruguayan dude who drives an ecotaxi and would love to take you to your destination, if you reserve in advance (he is quite busy as you can imagine).


The first place you must stop at is Dali's house. The artist, originally from Figueres, moved to Cadaqués with his wife Gala, and stayed at that residence until she passed away. After that, he left the house, never to return again and everything was maintained the way he left it, although maybe they made the beds because they look impecable. The house itself is a maze, and it is filled with the most peculiar objects. The tour is very interesting, as you get an explanation of each of the rooms, and time to enjoy each of the spaces in small groups. Please buy tickets in advance though, as it gets quite busy, especially during the summer time.


Another activity we would recommend is to rent a Kayak. These are available at Port Lligat, and you can have one for yourself, for two people or even for more people. Depending on your fitness level and your curiosity, you can choose to rent it for an hour, of even up to a full day. Depending on the time you might get to visit some of the Calas further north, or even go to the Lighthouse in Cap de Creus (which is a 6-hour round trip). If you feel like cooling off, and jumping off the Kayak at some point, I would only have two suggestions:

  1. Be careful where you step, there are many sea urchins hidden in the rocks, and you would not want to have to go through that. Also, if you have them, bring some water shoes - they will prove useful around all the Calas in this trip.

  2. Make sure you know how to get back on the Kayak, especially without tipping it over or launching your partner in the water, that could get you into a big argument worse than the sea urchins sting.

What you must do in Cadaques is walk by the water front. This is the most visited place, as its filled with restaurants, bars and pretty places overall. We stopped in a few of them, and here is the list, because if you don't stop in all of them... were you really there?

  • RAVIYU: So... I mentioned in the last post that pizza was all over the Costa Brava, and by the point we got here we caved in. We found this place, and if I can say that the pizza was DELICIOUS! We shared two pizzas between two people and had leftovers for a late-night snack.

  • Bar Boia: If there is a hip bar in town, this is it. Prime location by the beach and with amazing cocktails. I was overwhelmed (in a good way obviously) by the wide variety of alcohols they had, and thrilled to have an Aguardiente so far from home.

  • Es Fornet: This coffeeshop was always packed, and they had some crispy, big crackers on the display that just kept calling me. On the last day I just gave up and bought one. It is called a Coca de Vidrio, and had pine nuts. The thing was expensive, but fun to try and also fun to eat on my own (sorry to my girlfriend who had like half a bite before I devoured the whole thing).

  • Coco Cuina Viva: This restaurant has a healthy and ecological taste to it. It's food is delicious and we actually had breakfast here everyday during our trip. A few minutes away from the beach, it offers a different kind of experience, located in a quiet walking-only street.

  • Celeste: If you want seafood, which you must have had in the towns before this one or you're doing something wrong, this is the place in Cadaqués that will serve its purpose.


In hindsights, I could have divided the towns we visited differently, but what's done is done and I feel that this distribution allows for you to compare the first part of the trip to this second one. Costa Brava is a great area, filled with many differences amongst its towns and beaches, but I am sure you will find beauty everywhere you stop (we did).


Enjoy your trip!


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